Thursday, November 6, 2008

Banaue ~ The Road to Bangaan / Batad

Continued from:
Friday, 24 October 2008
Our first stop was in Poitan, the first village that is passed by along the road to Batad. We really had to stop here anyway. Brutus had to fix our gear.

Poitan, Banaue

Although the more popular of Banaue’s rice terraces can be found in Batad, as well as those that can be seen along the Banaue-Bontoc road in Barangay Viewpoint, all the other villages have land allotted for rice culture.

Poitan, Banaue

This is how the paddies in the rice terraces look like when viewed closer. This cluster is just off the road in Poitan.

Poitan, Banaue

Our next stop was at Guihob, a place where locals and visitors go for picnics and for a cool refreshing swim (especially during summer) in natural spring water coming from a small waterfall.

Guihob Natural Pool

Waterfalls are a precious resource in the Cordilleras. It is amazing to know how the natives have been harnessing the power of the falls to irrigate their farmlands since ancient times.

Guihob Natural Pool

A dam is usually built to constrain the water flow, and the spillover, ingeniously regulated by some primitive but effective form of a flood gate, is diverted into dikes and ditches that feed water to the crops.

Guihob Natural Pool

Our next stop was in Kinakin, another of the villages along the road to Batad. Notice that most of the farmland are built along or near the banks of a river.

Kinakin, Banaue

A church atop a hill in Kinakin, reminiscent of the Anglican mission churches established at or near the villages of the Cordilleras in the early 1900s. Although the Spaniards were able to Christianize most of lowland Luzon during colonial times, they met stiff resistance and so had limited presence in the mountains of the north.

church atop hill, Kinakin, Banaue

After Kinakin, we encountered portions of the road under construction that time. If you are planning to bring your own wheels, make sure it will be ready for something like these.

the road to Batad, Banaue

Our next stop was at this curio shop perched atop the edge of a hill. Not sure which area this is. The sign says Dalican view deck, but on further research, there is no barangay or village named Dalican in Banaue.

curios, Banaue

And this is the view deck, overlooking the valley below.

somewhere, Banaue

Now this is one case where having your own wheels is a big plus. I wanted to buy some awesome wood-carved panels I found at the shop, but how am I going to carry all that stuff along?

Anyway, after about an hour and a half on the road, we finally reached Bangaan. This heritage site is an alternative for those who cannot make the two hour trek to Batad.

Bangaan, Banaue

A 20-minute hike takes you down to the village, which showcases a typical Ifugao community with livelihood activities within the surroundings, such as weaving and woodcarving.

Bangaan, Banaue


Bangaan, Banaue

I figured it would take me about an hour or so if I trekked down to the village and back. By this time, it was getting a bit uncomfortable having other people, like the Osmonds, seemingly growing impatient, understandably eager to reach their own destination early. (Hello, I’m paying part of the rent, remember?)

Anyway, I was a bit tired, having had little sleep the night before, I felt I wouldn’t be able to hack the hike in a hurry as they might expect me to, and I didn’t really want any more discussions so I just dropped the idea.

But if you have the time and the energy, I suggest you take the hike. Everyone I met in town who’s been there tells me it’s all worth it.

LESSON: If you will be sharing a ride with others, choose the people you will be sharing with wisely. As much as possible, share a ride only with people who will be going to the same destinations as yours. If not, better make sure everyone understands what everyone is entitled to at the onset.
So away we went to drop the Osmonds off at Batad. Along the way, we passed by this truck full of kids going home from school. Trucks and jeeps overloaded with passengers are a common sight not only in Banaue but in the entire Cordilleras as well, simply due to the fact that not so many vehicles traverse the mountain roads that often.

the road to Batad, Banaue

Shortly before 11.30am, we reached the junction. The Batad rice terraces cluster, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a nine-kilometer hike away from this juncrion.

As Brutus and the Osmonds were finalizing their pick-up arrangements, I saw this curio shop. Again, how I wished I could bring some of these home.

curios, near Batad junction, Banaue

To be continued . . .

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

People’s Lodge & Restaurant, Banaue

A side story of:Based on my notes, I was supposed to check-in at some other place nearby, but I ended up staying at People’s Lodge, basically because the place looked really nice and cool, and the owner was very accommodating; she let me leave my things at the counter while I was still deciding.

Besides, I was already too tired to move around and look for a place to stay after the long ride from Manila. Plus, as soon as I got in, I was mesmerized by the refreshing view from the veranda at the back of the lodge.

breakfast, Banaue

The lodge is situated right at the town center and had most everything I needed: a nice, clean comfortable private room with its own bath that has a hot shower. The room had one double and one twin bed, no air-con, phone or TV (like most lodging places in the Cordilleras), reasonable enough at only P400 per day (this was sometime in October 2008).

People’s Lodge, Banaue


People’s Lodge, Banaue

The lodge has its own restaurant, for me a big plus as I don’t have to look for some place to dine each time I get hungry (which is often ), especially after a very tiring day of photo-sightseeing. Prices are just about average, from P80 to P120 per meal.

People’s Lodge, Banaue


People’s Lodge, Banaue


People’s Lodge, Banaue

People’s Lodge also provides Internet access on site (at P50 per hour). Very convenient if you’re the type who needs to check your email daily (like me).

People’s Lodge, Banaue

The lodge also has a souvenir shop, and even a mini-store that sells basic essentials, including bottled water and soda at just about the same prices as in Manila. Grrr!

View People’s Lodge SlideShow

Back to:

Banaue, Bontoc, Sagada and Baguio in 5 days ~ Day 1

Continued from:
Friday, 24 October 2008
At the town center, Brutus dropped us off at People’s Lodge & Restaurant, where we could have breakfast and talk about our schedule for the day.

People’s Lodge, Banaue

People’s Lodge is just across the Banaue Tourist Information Center, a good starting place to get help with your travel plans.

Banaue Tourist Information Center

TIP: The Tourist Information Center is run by the Banaue Tourism Council, which you can contact via landline at (074) 386-4010. You may also directly contact Ms. Juliet Mateo (in photo above), Information Officer, via her cellphone at 0929-469-2138.

I highly recommend that you inquire directly from this office first, before you decide on anything on your own and get duped by pseudo-tourist guides in the process (which almost happened to me).

Anyway, after breakfast I showed Brutus a list of the places I wanted to go to, and asked him to pick out those sites which he thinks would be possible for the short duration that I will be staying in town.

I made it clear to him that I needed to finish all the possible sites before 10am the next morning, before I leave for Bontoc as per my planned itinerary.

Initially, I wanted to go to Batad on my first day and get back to town in the early afternoon so I can do some other stuff. Brutus said that this would not be possible because it was already past 9am that time.

He pointed out that it would take about an hour and a half to drive to Batad junction,

the road to Batad, Banaue

and that I had to trek for about an hour and a half to get to the village,


Batad Trekking, originally uploaded by greendolphin18

another hour if I wanted to see Tappiya Falls,


Philippines: Batad Rice Terraces, originally uploaded by brien h.

plus a minimum of 30 minutes to stay and shoot some photos, and then trek again for just about the same time (or even more) to get back to the junction. He said it will be dark by the time we get back to town, so it would be useless as there would be nothing left to do in town at night (except drink a few bottles of beer).

He said that the couple who rode with us to town (who we shall be calling the Osmonds), also had plans to go to and stay in Batad for the night. So he suggested that I just do the same, and he will just pick us up the next morning at the junction and drive us back to town.

But I had other plans, I really didn’t want to spend the night in Batad and just get back to town the next day just to leave for Bontoc. I wanted to see more of Banaue, the people, the culture, the museums, whatever. So hesitantly, I had no choice but to just drop off my Batad adventure and just do the other stuff.

LESSON: In Banaue alone, you need to stay for at least two nights to see Batad and the rest of what the town has to offer.

So here is what we came up with. I get to see Guihob Natural Springs and the rice terraces at the village of Bangaan. After which, we drop the Osmonds off at Batad junction. Also, as agreed, I can stop anywhere along the road to shoot some photos. We split the P2,000 rent for the van.

I thought that was a bit stiff, but maybe just fair enough, P2,000 divided by three wasn’t that bad an investment compared to what I will be gaining (my priceless photos).

So off I went to check-in, freshen up a bit, and off we went on our journey.

Continue to:

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Banaue, Bontoc, Sagada and Baguio in 5 days ~ Day 0

Continued from:
Thursday, 23 October 2008
The most important thing to do this day is to make sure everything you need to bring are all ready and set to go.

The AutoBus overnight trip to Banaue leaves at about 10pm, so I left the house around 8.30, just in time to catch the bus parking at their terminal in Sampaloc.

While waiting, I noticed a convenience store across the terminal and thought that, lucky me, I still had time to do some last-minute shopping. So off I went and bought me two 1.5-liter bottles of soda and three 1-liter bottles of mineral water. They were a bit heavy and inconvenient to lug along, but I thought, hey I’m going somewhere remote they might not have much of these there, and if they did, they must cost a fortune.

Which turned out to be wrong, as I found out when I got there. Although Banaue is still fairly rural, they have lots of mini-stores scattered around town selling most basic items at almost the same prices as in Manila.

Anyway, you should bring enough water to at least last the entire trip. The bus will be making two stopovers, and you don’t want to be drinking strange water in a strange land.

I also had some time to take a quick snack just before boarding, but just a reminder, try not to eat so much as the trip takes about 9 hours, and you don’t want any unpleasant thing to happen to your stomach along the way, right.

Also, this is a good time to get your jacket ready, if you haven’t done so already. The trip will be very cold, especially when traveling between September to February. You don’t want to be unpacking your entire luggage on the bus to get to your sweater tucked well under your suitcase.

Soon we were leaving the terminal, a few minutes after 10. Nothing much to do except try and get some much needed sleep. You don’t want to spoil your well-planned itinerary by sleeping when you get to Banaue. I have a problem sleeping sitted down, so I just forced myself to at least get some rest, with eyes closed.

About two and a half hours later (about 0.30am), we had our first stopover at Saboytik Restaurant in San Miguel, Bulacan. I didn’t actually know where we were; it was Marc Angelo Hizola who provided the info.

Manila to Banaue

Shortly thereafter, we were back on the road, this time for a longer stretch. It took about another four hours before we had our final stopover at Jasmin Restaurant in Sta. Fe, Nueva Vizcaya. Again, thanks to Marc Angelo Hizola who provided the info.

Manila to Banaue


Manila to Banaue

By the time we left the diner (about 4.30am), we were only about two and a half hours from Banaue, and maybe too tired from the long ride, I was able to take a short nap.

I woke up around 6am, the sun had just barely risen, and felt relieved that we were just about an hour away.

Manila to Banaue, daybreak

About twenty minutes later, though, we passed by another AutoBus bound for Kiangan which run into some engine trouble. So it took a while to transfer and fit the passengers and cargo to our bus. I was bored and getting grouchy, so I just shot the daybreak from my window seat.

Manila to Banaue, daybreak


After about twenty minutes of delay, we finally moved on, only to stop again a half hour later in Lagawe, the provincial capital of Ifugao, to unload the excess passengers and cargo, which took about another fifteen minutes or so.

Finally, at just a little before 8am, we arrived at the AutoBus terminal in Banaue.

arrival, Banaue


arrival, Banaue


arrival, Banaue

The terminal is a short ride from the town proper. Depending on your destination, trikes are available from P8 up.

In my case, I saw a mini van waiting for passengers outside the terminal. Since I was eager to get to know a local who can guide me as soon as I got here, I thought maybe I’d ask him if the van is available in case I would be needing a vehicle. And rightly so, he said yes, he’ll take me to the town first and we’ll talk.

We waited for more passengers to share the ride, met this seemingly nice-looking Filipino couple in their late-20s (who I learned on the way were also interested in hiring a van), and then off we went to the town proper. Our driver, who we shall be calling Brutus, charged us only P10 for each passenger.

Continue to: